Simplifying Keratin: Understanding its Role in Hair Care
Understanding the science behind hair care products and their ingredients is fundamental to my practice as a trichologist. Trichology, which focuses on the health of the scalp and hair, requires in-depth knowledge of their biological and chemical aspects. This expertise enables me to diagnose and treat various hair and scalp conditions effectively based on scientific facts.
One such critical component in hair care is keratin, a fibrous protein that plays a crucial role in hair strength and health. With its strengthening and protective properties, keratin can be a valuable addition to hair care products, helping to mitigate damage caused by daily environmental factors and styling routines.
However, not all keratin treatments and products are created equally, and not all are suited for certain hair types. I have taken the time to thoroughly research keratin and its benefits, and in this blog, I will share my findings on its significance, sources, impact on hair care products, and effectiveness in controlling frizz. My goal is for you to gain a comprehensive understanding of keratin and how it can benefit your hair.
What is Keratin?
Keratin is a strong, fibrous protein that makes up the main structure of human hair, as well as animal hooves, feathers, claws, and fish scales. Its unique properties give hair its strength and flexibility. Its molecules are arranged in long, coiled chains that run along the length of the hair strand, creating a tough and resilient framework. This arrangement helps hair withstand physical stress and maintain its structure. The natural elasticity of keratin also allows hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking, making it both strong and flexible. This combination of strength and flexibility is why keratin is essential for keeping hair healthy and resilient.
Why Do We Need Keratin in Hair Products?
Our hair faces daily exposure to environmental toxins, UV rays, pollution, and physical damage from styling tools and products. These factors can weaken the hair shaft and damage the cuticle, leading to dryness, brittleness, and breakage. Incorporating keratin into hair care products helps to counteract these effects by providing essential reinforcement to the hair structure.
Keratin penetrates the hair cuticle and forms a protective layer, thereby strengthening the hair shaft and improving its resilience. This protective barrier helps to lock in moisture, reduce frizz, and prevent further damage from environmental and physical stressors. Wool keratin, known for its alpha-helical structure, is particularly effective in enhancing hair strength and elasticity.
However, the effectiveness of keratin in hair care products can vary based on its formulation and the pH levels of the products. The right formulation ensures that keratin is efficiently absorbed and utilized by the hair, providing maximum benefits.
The Impact of pH Levels on Hair
The pH level of keratin in hair care products can influence its effectiveness and the health of your hair. pH refers to the potential of hydrogen, which measures the acidity or alkalinity of a substance on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Maintaining pH balance is crucial for the health of hair because it ensures that the cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft, remains flat and closed, which protects the hair from damage, moisture loss, and frizz.
Using hair care products that are pH-balanced to match the natural pH of hair and scalp is essential for maintaining optimal hair health. Some keratin formulations have a higher pH, up to 9, which is more alkaline than the natural pH of hair. This higher pH can have different effects on various hair types:
Highly bleached hair or fine, coily textures: The higher pH can cause the cuticle to flare, leading to dryness and brittleness. However, it may still provide additional strength.
Other hair types: Keratin-enhanced products with a slightly higher pH are generally beneficial, offering extra strength and protection without significant adverse effects.
Insights from Scientific Research
I had the opportunity to discuss keratin with leading scientists at TRI Princeton and specialists at Bio Tools. Their ongoing research into keratin's secondary structures aims to optimize keratin formulations for hair care. These studies are essential as they help improve the efficacy of keratin in strengthening hair shafts and maintaining overall hair health. I’ll be posting updates as I learn more, but the takeaway is clear: keratin can be a valuable addition to hair care products, providing much-needed support and resilience to our hair.
Controlling Frizz Through Hair Care Products
Frizz remains a prevalent issue for many, caused by a lack of moisture and damage to the hair cuticle, which can result from environmental factors, styling, and chemical treatments. When the cuticle is damaged, it becomes raised and rough, allowing moisture from the air to penetrate the hair shaft and causing it to swell and become frizzy.
Keratin helps to combat frizz by smoothing and repairing the hair cuticle. When incorporated into hair care products, keratin can fill in gaps and cracks in the cuticle, creating a smoother surface. This not only strengthens the hair but also reduces the roughness that leads to frizz.
Other advancements in hair care technology offer promising solutions. I consulted with scientists at Ashland, who are developing new technologies to address the problem of frizzy hair. These advancements include molecules that penetrate the hair cortex to repair broken bonds, restore a homogeneous cuticle surface, and seal the cuticle. Based on tests they conducted on 75 well-known American hair care brands, here are some of the most effective ingredients currently used in frizz-control products:
Glycerin: This humectant locks moisture into the hair, preventing dryness and frizz.
Panthenol: Known for its water-binding properties, panthenol enhances hydration and shine.
Shea Butter: Rich in fatty acids, shea butter improves hair manageability and combability.
Coconut Oil: Containing lauric acid, coconut oil offers excellent frizz control and can reduce dandruff.
Strategies for Managing Frizz
The cosmetic industry has developed a range of strategies to tackle the persistent issue of frizzy hair, understanding that it can be a significant concern for many individuals. These strategies can be broadly categorized into two main approaches: frizz treatment and frizz control.
Frizz Treatment: This includes various products like frizz control serums, smoothing creams, gels, mousses, mists, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils.
Frizz Control: This involves long-term solutions like keratin treatments that chemically alter the hair structure to reduce frizz for extended periods.
Overcoming Humidity-Induced Frizz
Humidity can quickly undo the effects of styling, causing hair to revert to its natural curl pattern and frizz. Permanent solutions like keratin treatments use chemicals and heat to seal the cuticle, keeping frizz at bay for up to three months. For temporary solutions, advanced silicon-based products combined with healthy oils (e.g., coconut, jojoba, shea butter) offer effective frizz control without harming the hair or the environment. This is especially true for hair that has been overcolored or over-blow-dried.
Addressing Environmental Concerns
There is a common concern about the environmental impact of silicon-based hair products. However, according to research by L’Oreal, the formulation of silicon can be made environmentally friendly when combined with natural oils like coconut, jojoba, and shea butter. This ensures that the products are both effective and sustainable.
How to Decide if You Need Keratin
Understanding keratin and its benefits enables us to make informed decisions about the hair care products we use. Whether combating daily damage or managing frizz, keratin-infused hair care products can help maintain the health and vitality of your hair, keeping it strong, smooth, and manageable. The key is choosing the right products and formulations for your hair type.
Not all hair care products are suitable for every hair type or scalp microbiome. Choosing the right product should not be taken lightly, as using the wrong formulation can potentially cause more harm than good. If you're unsure about which products are best for your hair and scalp, it's always a good idea to consult with a trichologist, like me.
As a double board-certified trichologist with a practice in New York City, I specialize in hair and scalp health and can provide personalized treatment plans and recommendations based on your specific needs. After a thorough consultation and a scalp analysis, we will work together to find the right products and homeopathic solutions for you, whether it includes keratin or other products, supplements, or lifestyle changes.
Book a consultation with me to begin your new hair care journey.
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